![]() Sure 1-wire alternators do work a bit better than they did back then, but I have yet to find any reason to ever use a 1-wire alternator in a modern build. Again this relay can be inserted in line with the positive or negative control of the solenoid.Īlso don't go 1-wire alternator, that tech belongs left in the '70's when it made sense to have that option for hot rodders that didn't have the access to information we have today, and have lower current needs. This way would also disconnect the alternator output in the event that the engine stalls, which may be a benefit.Īnother way is to control the relay with the ignition switch, so that the solenoid is also powered off when the ignition is turned off. ![]() Set the relay to turn on at around 100 RPM. ![]() You can insert this relay inline with the positive control of the solenoid or the ground side. One way I can see to mitigate your concern about the solenoid remaining powered when the car is off, but the kill switch is still on, is to add an RPM activated relay (whether you use an MSD RPM activated switch or an output from your ECU, assuming EFI of course), to add another control point for the solenoid. You'll find the wiring diagram and other information here. Of course, when the engine stops turning the alternator there's no output, anyway. It doesn't matter if the alternator is still turned by the engine, and self exciting, as may happen when a manual is in gear on the over-run, or during the brief moment while the clutch is dipped, or whatever may be doing it, it has a return path the battery that is independent of the rest of the wiring. The normal type of master cut-off has an isolated return for the alternator output, with a diode to prevent the potential for a short because of power coming from the battery side, because simply open circuiting a running alternator can result in a voltage spike that will destroy the diodes and/or voltage regulator. You're over-thinking it - while connecting the alternator output directly to the engine side of the cut-off switch would continue to power the vehicle, that isn't how it is wired in the vehicle. Or should I change out to a battery isolator like the Cartek GT? Is that correct, or can you give me a proper diagram showing how I should wire it? And then activating the solenoid with the ignition, or could I also wire that to the cutoff switch? So how would I go about wiring in the solenoid to cut this off as well? My thinking was wiring one pole of the solenoid to the alternator, and connect the other pole to the existing front battery post (and all the vehicle systems) as well as a cable running back to the cutoff switch and battery. It's my understanding that even if you flip the cutoff switch to disconnect the battery, there is still a chance that the alternator could continue to power the vehicle and leave it running. I also have a large solenoid that I was planning to use to cut off the vehicle systems from the alternator. I have a Moroso cutoff switch mounted in the back, it's the 4 pole type with 2 large poles and 2 small. I've moved the battery to the back of the car, installed in a battery box. I am redoing my battery wiring at the same time as building my club level engine harness, so I was hoping to get some input on the correct way to wire the system. ![]()
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